Costa Rica is Pura Vida

Beginning Our Road Scholar Adventure: A Taste of Costa Rica

On February 4, we embarked on our Road Scholar adventure, Taste of Costa Rica. After our flight and a slow crawl through San José’s rush-hour traffic, we finally arrived at Hotel Balmoral, a centrally located hotel in the heart of the city. As experienced travelers, we found it quite comfortable—firm beds, clean and spacious rooms, and a relaxing atmosphere to ease into our stay.

From our window, an eye-catching mural on a building across the street immediately grabbed Clare’s and my attention. The vibrant colors and bold design made us eager to explore more of San José.

A Few Facts About San José

San José is not only Costa Rica’s capital but also sits 3,300 feet above sea level. Though the city originated in the 1730s, it wasn’t the country’s first capital—that title belonged to Cartago. However, due to San José’s rapid growth, the capital was moved here shortly after Costa Rica gained independence from Spain in 1821. Interestingly, its original name was quite a mouthful: Villa Nueva de la Boca del Monte (New Village in the Mouth of the Forest).

First Meal in Costa Rica: A Hit and a Miss

Eager to dive into Costa Rican cuisine, we set out for Restaurante Chelles, a place I found on Google that promised “authentic” local food. The experience turned out to be memorable, but for different reasons.

Clare confidently tried her Spanish as we entered, saying, “Una mesa para dos personas, por favor.” The waitress, delighted, responded with a rapid-fire reply in Spanish that left us both startled! With a quick gesture, she indicated we could sit anywhere. When I pointed toward another seating area, she shook her head and said, “Mucho frío”—a cool evening. Taking her advice, we settled inside.

As for the food, Clare’s meal was quite good, but mine? Not so much. A less-than-stellar start to our culinary journey, but we were just getting started—we had plenty more Costa Rican flavors to explore!

Exploring San José: A Walking Tour of the City Center

The next morning, after breakfast, Clare and I set off on a walking tour of San José’s city center. Our first stop was the plaza next to the Teatro Nacional (National Theater), one of Costa Rica’s most treasured landmarks.

Right away, something caught my eye—two striking calaca or La Catrina figures standing in front of the plaza. Their bold, skeletal designs added a touch of eerie beauty to the bustling scene, making for a memorable start to our tour.

A National Treasure: The Teatro Nacional

Built in 1891, the Teatro Nacional is considered the most historic building in San José. It first opened its doors in October 1897 with a performance of Goethe’s Faust, setting the stage—literally—for its reputation as a cultural gem.

Surrounding the theater are various statues, each adding to the site’s grandeur. In front, we spotted sculptures of Calderón de la Barca and Ludwig van Beethoven, both watching over the plaza as if guarding its artistic legacy. If we’d had more time, we definitely would have gone inside to admire its famously opulent interior.

Oh, and speaking of eye-catching sights—let’s just say that when I spotted a head on a plate, I couldn’t resist taking a closer look.

San José’s Historic Landmarks: From Grand Hotels to Hidden Statues

Just across from the Teatro Nacional, we came upon the Gran Hotel Costa Rica—widely regarded as the best hotel in San José. Built in 1928, it was the capital’s first first-class hotel, setting the standard for luxury in Costa Rica. In 2004, President Abel Pacheco declared it a national landmark, cementing its place in the city’s history. With its Victorian-style architecture, the hotel stands as a reminder of a bygone era of elegance and sophistication.

Right in front of the hotel stands a statue of Juan Mora, Costa Rica’s first elected head of state in 1825. A fitting tribute to an important historical figure, though the nearby clock tower left a little less of an impression—both Clare and I agreed it wasn’t much of a tower at all!

Catedral Metropolitana & Parque Central

Continuing our walk, we reached the Catedral Metropolitana, built in 1871. Its simple Greek Orthodox-inspired design contrasted with its elaborate altar, making for an interesting mix of styles. Outside, we spotted statues of Pope John Paul II and, somewhat unexpectedly, Anne Frank—an intriguing and thought-provoking addition to the cathedral grounds.

Across the street, Parque Central provided a lively green space, its large bandstand supported by striking arches. Wandering along Avenida 2, we came across a bronze Street Cleaner statue, a humble yet powerful tribute to the city’s workers.

The Melico Salazar Theatre: Costa Rica’s Cultural Hub

Our final stop was the Melico Salazar Theatre, standing just across the street. With its packed calendar of concerts, plays, and performances, some call it Costa Rica’s Madison Square Garden. Though not as famous as the Teatro Nacional, it plays a vital role in the country’s cultural scene.

San José had already given us plenty to see—and we were just getting started!

Since we were nearby, we decided to check out Mercado Central and see what the shopping area had to offer. Having visited several markets across Europe, we had a good idea of what to expect—and Mercado Central did not disappoint. It was a sprawling marketplace filled with everything from fresh food to clothing, offering an authentic and bustling shopping experience.

Clare and I had a great lunch at Tenedor Argentina, a restaurant recommended by both our guidebook and the hotel desk clerk. I went for a chorizo sandwich, while Clare opted for grilled chicken—both were excellent.

After lunch, we headed to Chinatown—yes, Chinatown! But my real destination was John Lennon. Inspired by Give Peace a Chance, I set out to find him. Sure enough, across the street from Iglesia La Soledad, there he was—deep in thought, immortalised in bronze. I sat with him for a while, soaking in the moment, before flashing the classic peace sign and heading off.

We took a walk to Parque Morazán, a small but inviting park we had spotted during our taxi ride into the city. Just across the street, we found Jardín de Paz, home to a statue of Daniel Oduber Quirós, Costa Rica’s president from 1974 to 1978. He played a key role in establishing the Sistema Nacional de Radio y Televisión and the Universidad Estatal a Distancia.

Further along, we came across Casa Amarilla (the Yellow House), an 18th-century Neo-Baroque building donated by Andrew Carnegie to house the Pan-American Court of Justice. Today, it serves as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and features a striking section of the Berlin Wall. The best photo I could get was through a fence, framed between a lamppost and a conifer.

From there, we set out to find Hotel Don Carlos, located near Casa Amón. This beautiful wooden home is a blend of Art Deco, Neoclassical, and Colonial-style grillwork. It’s well worth a stop to admire the pre-Columbian treasures inside. Diagonally across from the hotel stands the Hemingway Inn.

Continuing down Avenida 7, we reached La Casa Verde, where we admired a wall adorned with hand-painted tiles depicting Costa Rican coffee pickers and daily life. The building received a UNESCO award in 1994.

Doubling back, we made our way to Parque Nacional, home to the granite-bronze Monumento Nacional. Along the way, we passed the Mexican Embassy, an impressive structure. Nearby, I stumbled upon a fascinating sculpture of men crawling out of the earth, which left a lasting impression.

At the corner of Avenida 3 and Calle 15, we reached Plaza de la Libertad Electoral, located in front of the Tribunal Supremo de Elecciones. In the U.S., an independent electoral agency like this would be a breath of fresh air—it operates free from political parties and even reviews all political publications and broadcasts for accuracy. Imagine that!

We returned to the hotel for a bit of rest before meeting up with our Road Scholar group. That afternoon, I got a call from Gilberth Molino “Chito”, checking in to make sure we had arrived and letting us know where to meet the group that evening. After a warm welcome and a lovely dinner with our fellow travellers, we wrapped up the night and headed to bed.

The next morning, we attended a lecture by Paulo Valerio, who was simply outstanding. He shared a wealth of information on Costa Rica’s history, explaining how events in Europe and Central America shaped the country over time. Normally, this kind of topic could feel a bit dry, but Paulo brought it to life with humour and vivid storytelling.

Later, Paulo led our discussion at the Gold Museum (Museo del Oro Precolombino). He explained how, during the Pre-Columbian period (500 BC – 1600 AD), indigenous cultures viewed gold not as a measure of wealth, like the Europeans did, but as a ceremonial and magical material.

He also gave an intriguing lecture on the indigenous worldview, exploring their beliefs about the Upper World, Middle World, and Underworld. I found it absolutely fascinating.

After visiting the Gold Museum, we set off for Sarapiquí, a canton that makes up a large portion of the Heredia Province, named after its major waterway, the Sarapiquí River.

Along the way, we made a special stop at the home of a former Road Scholar guide, where we were treated to a wonderful homemade lunch. The meal began with a rich carrot, pumpkin, and potato soup, followed by arroz con pollo with beans, and finished with a sweet potato and cinnamon dessert. The guide’s daughter prepared coffee the traditional Costa Rican way, hand-grinding the beans and brewing it through a chorreador, the country’s beloved drip coffee maker.

We arrived at Selva Verde Lodge and the Sarapiquí Conservation Learning Center in the afternoon. The lodge was rustic but well-maintained, offering a clean and comfortable stay. Though there was no air conditioning and the weather was hot and humid, the overhead fans kept us cool enough to sleep—aside from the 5 AM howler monkey alarm clocks!

One of my personal highlights was capturing a photo of a hummingbird—a task that took nearly an hour, but was well worth the effort. Later, Clare and I went to check out the Sarapiquí River, where we’d soon be rafting, and tested out the hanging bridge. While I usually have trouble with heights, I managed to cross without much difficulty thanks to the sturdy sides and handrails.

The lush plants and flowers surrounding the lodge made it feel like a true paradise.

I woke up early—courtesy of the howler monkeys—and met Chito at the dining area, where fresh fruit was set out to attract birds. Watching them gather in the soft morning light, eager for their first meal of the day, was truly fascinating.

Chito then led us on a wildlife walk around the lodge, pointing out various birds, animals, and reptiles. He had an incredible eye for spotting the hidden residents of the area. Along the way, he pointed out a green poison dart frog, an iguana lounging in a tree, and more howler monkeys moving through the canopy.

Later in the day, I had a few wildlife encounters of my own—I spotted a red poison dart frog along the path, a green iguana cleverly camouflaged, and a variety of butterflies fluttering through the area.

After watching the morning bird feeding and enjoying breakfast, we set off for our rafting adventure on the Sarapiquí River. A few in the group felt a bit nervous, having never rafted on a river before, but the excitement quickly took over. With smiles all around, we listened carefully to our guide’s instructions, then—eager and ready—paddled forward to take on the unknown.

I usually only share my own photos, but on this trip, I had the privilege of traveling with some exceptional photographers. So, for this post, I’m making an exception.

The rafting team captured some truly stunning shots, and given our short stay in Costa Rica, it would have been impossible for any of us to document the incredible variety of wildlife on our own. I’m thrilled to share these images with you—each one a glimpse into the natural wonders of Costa Rica.

I hope you enjoy these photos and take a moment to appreciate what an extraordinary treasure Costa Rica is. If you haven’t visited yet, I highly recommend adding it to your travel list!

Here’s a list of the birds, reptiles, and animals featured in the photos:

• Birds: Sun Bittern, Amazon Male Kingfisher, Amazon Female Kingfisher, Anhinga, Baltimore Oriole, Black Woodpecker, Black Cowled Oriole, Black Throated Trogon, Blue Crowned Motmot, Tanager, Toucan, Cara Cara, Crested Owls, Crimson Collared Tanager, Tiger Heron, Great Kiskadee Flycatcher, Green Honeycreeper, Osprey, Pale Billed Woodpecker, Passerini’s Tanager, Red Eyed Tree Frog, Red Legged Honeycreeper, Red Throated Ant Tanager, Summer Tanager, Violaceous Trogon, Yellow Crowned Euphonia, Yellow Crowned Night Heron.

• Reptiles & Amphibians: Green Iguana (Iguana Verde), Poison Dart Frog, Snake.

• Mammals: Howler Monkey, Nutrias, Tamandua (Lesser Anteater), Two-Toed Sloth.

Costa Rica is truly a paradise for nature lovers—I hope these photos inspire you to experience its beauty firsthand!

Later in the day, we visited a local family home, where we were welcomed by Hazel, who shared a fascinating history of how her family settled in the area. She spoke about the challenges they faced while building their home and businesses in what was then an undeveloped region.

Her daughter, Evelyn, served as our translator and helped with a hands-on demonstration of traditional cheese-making and sweet tortillas—a delicious mix of flour, butter, sugar, sour cream, and egg. We also had the chance to try freshly brewed coffee and a refreshing mango-papaya juice, both of which were excellent.

Meanwhile, Hazel’s son gave us a lesson in pepper cultivation, showing us their pepper plants and explaining how the family harvests and processes the peppercorns from the plant’s fruit.

After a good night’s sleep, we set off the next morning for a riverboat journey down the Sarapiquí River, hoping to spot wildlife along the banks.

Before we even boarded, we had a special sighting—a two-toed sloth lounging in a tree. The tree itself was fascinating, bearing an amazingly large fruit that added to the scene’s uniqueness.

As we drifted down the river, our boat captain and Chito expertly spotted an impressive variety of wildlife. I managed to capture a few shots, though not my best of the trip. Among the highlights, we saw a caiman, iguanas, bats, monkeys, a kingfisher, a turkey vulture, and an anhinga (special thanks to Tom Mitchell for the photo!).

The bats were especially tricky to spot—they were tiny and so well-camouflaged against the tree bark. To help us locate them, Chito used a green laser pointer, and I’ve included a picture where you can see them just beneath the green dot.

Before heading to Arenal, we made a stop at an organic pineapple plantation. There, we attended a fascinating lecture on the ecological impact of global warming, pineapple propagation, workforce challenges, and even how to pick the perfect pineapple at the store.

We learned that it takes one year and four months for a pineapple to be ready for harvest, and this plantation produces a staggering 50,000 pineapples per week, year-round. We were also treated to a demonstration on how to properly pick a pineapple—though unfortunately, grocery stores probably won’t let us bring a machete to test our selections!

Beyond the pineapples, the plantation offered some unexpected wildlife encounters. We spotted a bird nesting among the pineapples and were lucky enough to see a pair of red macaws soaring overhead.

A special thanks to Kay Gaskill for capturing the last photo—unfortunately, I had the wrong lens on my camera at just the wrong moment!

After a delicious lunch in La Fortuna, we arrived at our hotel in Arenal—Arenal Manoa.

Arenal was Costa Rica’s most active volcano until 2010. On July 29, 1968, it erupted violently, with explosions lasting for days. The eruption buried over 15 square kilometers (5.8 sq mi) under rocks, lava, and ash, tragically killing 87 people and wiping out three villages—Tabacón, Pueblo Nuevo, and San Luís. The volcano remained active for decades, with eruptions continuing until 2009.

At Arenal Manoa Hotel, we found a natural thermal pool, which most of our group eagerly took advantage of. The view from our hotel room was stunning, though Chito mentioned that the volcano is often hidden behind clouds. Luckily, as the day went on, the clouds lifted, revealing Arenal in all its majesty.

The next day, we set off for the Arenal Hanging Bridges, where Chito once again amazed us with his keen eye for spotting plants, birds, and insects. As we walked, he provided fascinating insights into the ecosystem around us.

One particularly intriguing fact was about viper snakes—they coil around the furry red flowers that attract hummingbirds, lying in wait to strike and consume them. Chito also pointed out a trail of leafcutter ants, explaining how they cut plant leaves and transport them back to their underground nests to cultivate fungus for food.

Some birds were so well-camouflaged or difficult to photograph that Chito used our cell phones to capture images through his monocular, giving us a closer look at these elusive creatures.

Back at Arenal Manoa Hotel, Alison and Shannon spotted an armadillo, giving us another unexpected wildlife moment. We also enjoyed watching the egrets perched in the trees by the pond across from the restaurant, a perfect way to end the day.

After lunch, we visited a local elementary school, where we were greeted with warm smiles and open hands. The children eagerly took our hands, leading us to a pavilion where they performed a series of traditional dances.

Their energy and playfulness were infectious, making the experience truly delightful. In between performances, we had the chance to learn about their education system and see their school firsthand—a memorable and heartwarming visit.

Next, we visited a local farm to learn about its history and agricultural traditions.

One of the highlights was squeezing juice from sugarcane—starting the old-fashioned way with a wooden mallet. After all that effort, we got to taste the fresh-pressed juice and even sample some fermented rum (easily my favorite part!).

We also had a hands-on lesson in making tortillas, cooking them on a traditional wood stove—a truly authentic experience.

To top it all off, we enjoyed a delicious farm-fresh dinner—YUM!

The next day, we crossed Arenal Lake in a pontoon boat, heading toward our bus ride to Monteverde.

Interestingly, while sailboats aren’t allowed on the lake, windsurfing is. Arenal Lake plays a vital role in Costa Rica’s energy production, supplying 25% of the country’s electricity. It also serves as a tilapia fishery, which explains why tilapia appeared so frequently on our menus!

During the boat ride, we spotted herons, egrets, kingfishers, and turkey vultures, adding to the scenic beauty of the journey. As we neared the shore, we took a few final glances at the majestic Arenal Volcano, a breathtaking farewell to this incredible region.

Our next stop was a coffee plantation, where we learned about the harvesting and processing of Costa Rica’s famous coffee.

We discovered that coffee plants are hermaphrodites and take three years before yielding their first harvest. Once mature, they have a 30-year reproductive lifespan. Interestingly, farmers plant two coffee plants together so they compete and grow faster.

The coffee-picking process is intense—each basket holds 30 kilos (66 pounds) of coffee cherries, and pickers at this plantation earn $1.75 per basket. It’s a demanding job, but essential to the region’s economy.

For a bit of fun, some of the women in our group hopped onto an oxcart for a short ride. A big thanks to Alan Hillard for capturing a fantastic shot of the oxen and their driver—a perfect snapshot of this traditional mode of transport.

That evening, we watched the sunset while enjoying libations at the bar and the company of our fellow travelers.  Thanks to Alan Hillard for this shot.

On day 7, our morning adventure took us deep into the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, a lush and misty haven for countless bird species. While we didn’t spot the elusive Resplendent Quetzal, we were treated to plenty of other incredible sightings.

One of the highlights was a large bird with a red underside on its neck—I believe it was a Crested Guan, though I’m open to corrections!

The hummingbirds were absolutely spectacular. Not only did they swarm around the feeding stations, but they also fluttered gracefully between wildflowers, offering incredible photo opportunities.

A real challenge (but a rewarding one) was capturing a shot of a toucanet hiding in the undergrowth—a moment of patience and luck that paid off!

Bats, Quakers, and Butterflies in Monteverde

After exploring the Cloud Forest Reserve, we embarked on an educational visit to the Bat Jungle, where we learned about bat biology, their incredible diversity, and their vital role as pollinators. It was fascinating to discover how these often-misunderstood creatures contribute to the ecosystem.

That evening, we had the privilege of meeting Marvin Rockwell at Monteverde’s Quaker community. Rockwell was one of 44 Quakers from 11 families who left Fairhope, Alabama in the 1950s, seeking a peaceful life in Costa Rica after refusing to participate in compulsory military service. Hearing his firsthand account of their journey and the founding of Monteverde was truly inspiring.

Before leaving Monteverde the next day, we visited the Monteverde Butterfly Garden and Arthropod Education Center. A staff member gave a fascinating talk about arthropods, showcasing live specimens like scorpions, roaches, dung beetles, and even tarantulas. The tour through the Butterfly Garden was a perfect way to wrap up our time in this biodiverse paradise.

Wrapping Up an Unforgettable Journey

Our adventure came full circle as we traveled back to San José for our final evening together. After a week filled with breathtaking landscapes, incredible wildlife, and rich cultural experiences, it was bittersweet to say goodbye.

At the Wyndham, our guide Chito led a debrief, reflecting on the highlights and takeaways from our journey. It was clear that this trip had left a lasting impression on all of us. To end on a joyful note, Ann Melrose led the group in song, bringing smiles and laughter to our final night.

This was truly one of the best Road Scholar tours that Clare and I have ever been on—made even more special by the wonderful friendships we formed along the way.

TUNE: Jamaica Farewell. (Harry Belafonte)

Down the way where the nights are gay
And the sun shines daily on volcano tops
I took a trip with a Road Scholar
And when I reached Costa Rica I made a stop!

Well I’m sad to say, I’m on my way
Won’t be back for many a day
My heart is down, my head is turning around
I have to leave amigo Chito in Parapaqui town.

If you really listen, you can hear
Chito whistle to the birds he knows are there
He can spot them anywhere
In Costa Rica, his country he loves so dear.

Well I’m sad to say, I’m on my way
Won’t be back for many a day
My heart is down, my head is turning around
I have to leave amigo Chito in Parapaqui town.

CHANGE TUNE to Banana Boat Song/Harry Belafonte

Come mi amigo Chito, count the Road Scholars
Uno dos tres, estan todos aqui.

Come mi amigo Chito, count the Road Scholars
Uno dos tres, estan todos aqui!

Chito and Omar
Best tour guides in the Road Scholar
Chito and Omar
Best tour guides in the Road Scholar
Best tour guides in the Road Scholar