Traveling across time zones always sounds glamorous — until that first groggy day hits. If you’ve ever landed in Europe, bleary-eyed and determined to see it all, you’ll know how easy it is to burn out before the trip really begins. That’s why Clare and I have learned a simple trick on our Road Scholar adventures: arrive a few days early. It gives you breathing space to shake off the jet lag, ease into a new city, and enjoy the first taste of a place without rushing.
Copenhagen was our starting point, and from the moment we checked into the Phoenix Hotel, the city invited us in with its blend of history, color, and charm. From our first stroll along the Nyhavn Kanal to walking tours that led us past royal palaces, fountains, and fairy-tale statues, we discovered a city that balances its deep history with a modern, cozy atmosphere.
In this part of our journey, I’ll take you through our days in Copenhagen: where we wandered, what stood out, and the little surprises that made this city such a memorable beginning before heading on to Stockholm.
Day One – Settling into Copenhagen
That first day in Copenhagen was all about keeping things light. After a long flight and the inevitable time difference, Clare and I knew better than to push ourselves. Over the years, we’ve learned that easing into a new city makes the rest of the trip so much more enjoyable.
Since we were staying at the Phoenix Hotel, we didn’t have to go far to find our first taste of Copenhagen. Just around the corner was the Nyhavn Kanal — a place that immediately feels like the postcard version of the city. The colorful 17th- and 18th-century townhouses, now home to shops, cafés and restaurants, line the canal that once had a much rougher past. Dug by Danish soldiers and Swedish prisoners of war in the 1670s, Nyhavn was once notorious for sailors, beer, and brothels. It’s hard to imagine that scene today, especially knowing that Hans Christian Andersen once lived at #20 for nearly two decades. Now, it’s lively but in a far more charming way — perfect for a gentle walk as we took in our new surroundings.
By evening, we were ready for a proper meal. Not wanting to wander far, we asked the front desk at the Phoenix for a relaxed dinner recommendation. They suggested Elan Restaurant, and kindly phoned ahead to book us a table. To our delight, when we arrived, the restaurant greeted us with a complimentary glass of champagne — a small but memorable touch that made us feel instantly welcomed in the city.
It was the perfect first night: simple, unrushed, and just enough to begin soaking in the atmosphere of Copenhagen before heading into busier days ahead.
Day Two – Palaces, Statues, and Fairy Tales
After a good night’s sleep, we were ready to explore properly. I slipped out early with my camera to catch Nyhavn in the morning light — a completely different mood from the previous evening, quiet and almost reflective before the cafés filled with life. By the time I joined Clare for breakfast at the Phoenix, we were refreshed and eager to walk the city.
Armed with a simple walking tour map, we set off past the Christian X statue on Sankt Annæ Plads. Christian X ruled Denmark from 1912 to 1947, and though the statue is imposing, I was struck more by the quiet dignity of the square itself. From there, we continued up Amaliegade to Amalienborg Palace Square, home to Denmark’s royal family. The square is framed by four grand palaces, each bearing the name of past monarchs, and in the center stands the equestrian statue of King Frederick V. Standing there, with the symmetry of the buildings all around, you really feel the weight of history layered into the city. We were fortunate enough to be at the square early to see the changing of the guards. They do change the guards at noon with a much larger ceremony, however, the square is packed at that time so viewing is not as easy.
We carried on to Gefion Fountain, Copenhagen’s largest monument. Before we got there, we saw two statues of Neptune and Mercury. Neptune and Mercury reflect the dual foundations of Copenhagen’s historical greatness: the sea and trade. That’s why you’ll often see them in fountains, sculptures, and decorative motifs around the city — reminding locals and visitors alike of how the city flourished. It’s a dramatic sculpture of the goddess Gefion driving a team of oxen, tied to the old legend of how Zealand (the island Copenhagen sits on) was created. The fountain’s energy contrasts beautifully with the nearby St Alban’s Church, an elegant Anglican church that looks almost transplanted from England.
The route led us past several statues, including Frederick IX and the Ivar Huitfeldt Column, before we reached perhaps the most famous of them all: The Little Mermaid. Even knowing it would be crowded, I was surprised by just how many people gathered around the small bronze figure perched on her rock. Inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale, she’s become Copenhagen’s emblem, but for me, the best part wasn’t the statue itself — it was watching the crowd. Everyone leaned in for photos, while the mermaid sat serenely gazing out to sea, almost indifferent to the attention.
Escaping the crush, we strolled through Kastellet, the star-shaped fortress that feels more like a peaceful park these days. When we looped back toward Amalienborg, we stumbled upon the changing of the guard. Earlier, we’d seen a smaller, quieter version, but at noon the crowds packed in for the full ceremony. Both had their charm — though I admit, I preferred the smaller one for its calmness and ease.
On the way back, we passed the back of the Designmuseum and Frederiks Kirke (the Marble Church), its great dome dominating the skyline, and the Alexander Nevsky Church, with its onion domes reminding us of Copenhagen’s international ties.
By the end of the day, our legs were tired, but it was the good kind of tired — the kind that comes from wandering a city rich in both history and atmosphere.
Day Three – Rain, Design, and Royal Treasures
Our third day in Copenhagen didn’t start quite as planned. The idea had been to spend the morning exploring the Royal District with Rosenborg Slot and the King’s Gardens, but the skies had other ideas. A steady, soaking rain greeted us when we looked out from the Phoenix. Rather than waste the day, we adjusted our plans — something you quickly learn to do when traveling.
We waited out the worst of the downpour and, once it eased to a drizzle, set our sights on the Designmuseum Denmark. We’d spotted the back entrance the day before, but this time we walked through the front doors, into a world that felt distinctly Danish. The museum is housed in the former Frederiks Hospital, remodeled in the 1920s by architect Kaare Klint, and it showcases the creativity that has made Denmark famous for design. From the clean lines of Arne Jacobsen’s chairs to Jacob Jensen’s sleek objects, every room spoke to the blend of functionality and beauty that defines Danish style. The collection even went beyond Denmark, with delicate Chinese and German porcelain adding a global touch to the exhibits.
By the time we left, the rain had finally given way, and sunlight was beginning to filter through the clouds. We seized the chance to head toward Rosenborg Castle, built in the early 1600s by King Christian IV. The castle’s turrets and brickwork gave it a fairy-tale quality, but what lay inside was even more striking: Denmark’s crown jewels and royal crowns, preserved in the basement vaults like hidden treasures.
Surrounding the castle is the King’s Garden (Kongens Have), the city’s oldest and most visited park. Once private grounds for Christian IV, the gardens are now filled with locals strolling, statues scattered among tree-lined paths, and an easy sense of calm despite the grandeur of the setting. Of course there is a statue of Hans Christian Andersen. After the grey start to the day, the combination of sunshine, green lawns, and a castle at our back felt like Copenhagen was rewarding us for our patience.
That evening, we asked the front desk for a recommendation that felt more authentically Danish. They suggested Restaurant Vita, just a short walk away, known for serving traditional dishes. At Restaurant Vita, you will find classic Danish dishes and desserts served in the old royal pharmacy from the 1600s. You will dine under the chandelier with a fine tablecloth on the table. I ordered Vita’s stew — a hearty mix of beef, fried sausages, bacon, mushrooms, and hand-cut fries. It was filling, certainly, but not something I’d recommend. Clare fared better with her choice: Pork roast with crisp pork rind and all the trimmings. She enjoyed hers far more than I did, and we left feeling that at least one of us had managed to find a taste worth remembering.
Day Four – Baroque Beauty and Bridges by the Strait
By our fourth day in Copenhagen, we were beginning to feel the miles in our legs. After walking eight to ten miles each day, our energy wasn’t quite as sharp, so our walking tour of Christianshavn ended up being more meandering than methodical. Still, that slower pace let us focus on what we really wanted to see.
At the top of the list was the grand Our Savior’s Church (Vor Frelsers Kirke). Baroque architecture is a rarity in Denmark, but this church is a masterpiece from that era. Its origins date back to the late 1600s, when King Frederik III introduced hereditary absolute monarchy after long wars, and his son Christian V set about cementing that power with a bold new building style.
The most striking feature of the church, however, is its spiral spire, consecrated in 1752. The climb to the top is legendary, often described as a test of courage. Entirely made of oak, the spire can sway a little in strong winds — something to keep in mind when you’re edging up the staircase toward the golden globe at its peak. Even without making the climb, just standing beneath it gives you a sense of how daring and ambitious the design was for its time.
From there, we attempted to visit Christians Kirke, but once again found the gates locked. Rather than be disappointed, we took the opportunity to head toward the Øresund Strait. The fresh breeze off the water was a welcome change, and it was along this walk that we discovered the Cirkelbroen Bridge, one of the most beautiful modern landmarks in Copenhagen. Designed by Danish–Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, the bridge recalls the forms of historic ships with its five masts and differently sized circular platforms. Crossing it felt more like stepping aboard a vessel than walking across a bridge — a playful reminder of Copenhagen’s long maritime history.
As the skies cleared, we circled back to Our Savior’s Church and, to our delight, found it open. This time we were able to step inside and take in the full splendor of its baroque interior. After so many miles of walking and unexpected detours, it felt like a small reward at the end of our persistence. Inside the church, his monogram is still visible, along with decorations of elephants — a nod to the Order of the Elephant, the most prominent of the Danish orders which he elevated in status.
There were some interesting scenes along our journey that caught our eyes as we walked along.
By the time we crossed the Inderhavnsbroen (the “Kissing Bridge”) back toward the city center, we were ready for a break. We stopped at Broens Gadekøkken (Bridge Street Kitchen) for a light lunch, sitting along the water with locals and fellow travelers. It was simple, unfussy, and exactly what we needed — a restful close to another full day of exploring Copenhagen.
That evening, we met with Laura Golbuff, our group leader, and the other participants in the Road Scholar program.
Day Five – History, Politics, and Palaces
By Day Five, our Road Scholar program officially began. We gathered with our fellow travelers in the Phoenix conference room for an introduction to Denmark — a country that, despite its modest size, carries an outsized influence in Europe and beyond.
Over the course of an hour, we learned that Denmark is made up of the Jutland Peninsula and more than 400 islands, home to about six million people. It’s a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary democracy, and the Danes enjoy one of the highest qualities of life in the world. Their welfare system is extensive, covering healthcare, education (including universities), parental leave, childcare, and pensions. Taxes are high — with income tax rates running between 35% and 52%, plus a 25% VAT — but the system is embraced as part of what makes Danish society function. The country’s economy thrives on pharmaceuticals, shipping, green technology, agriculture, and design, with wind turbines and pork among its key exports.
What struck me most, though, was less about numbers and more about culture. Danes live by an unwritten social code called Janteloven, which emphasizes modesty, equality, and consensus. No one is considered “better” than anyone else. That ethos, combined with 5–6 weeks of annual vacation, generous family benefits, and a culture of trust in people and institutions, explains why so many surveys rank Denmark among the happiest countries in the world.
After the briefing, our guide Lotte Blom led us on a walking tour of Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter. We began in the Rosenborg Castle Garden before weaving our way through narrow streets and centuries of history. One highlight was the Round Tower (Rundetårn), built in the 17th century by Christian IV as an astronomical observatory. Its wide, spiraling ramp was designed so horses could haul heavy instruments to the top — a clever solution that still impresses today.
Lotte also pointed out beautifully preserved buildings, including the Nicolai Kirke and the Gustmeyer House. Built in 1797, this elegant Neoclassical structure has an unexpected claim to fame: it’s the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning physicist Niels Bohr. Moments like this made me realize how seamlessly history is woven into Copenhagen’s everyday streets.
We paused for lunch at BLOX, a striking modern building by the waterfront that houses offices, cultural spaces, and a popular café. The food was excellent, and I’d happily recommend it to anyone visiting the Christiansborg area.
Our afternoon was devoted to Christiansborg Palace, a place that blends Denmark’s past and present in remarkable ways. I was pleasantly surprised to find a statue of Kierkegaard gracing the garden, a thoughtful tribute to Denmark’s most famous philosopher. Once home to kings and queens, the palace today houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. Yet parts of it remain in royal use, particularly the Royal Reception Rooms, where the Queen hosts foreign dignitaries and state events. Standing in the Throne Room, with its twin thrones and balcony where Danish monarchs are proclaimed, it wasn’t hard to imagine centuries of ceremony echoing through the space.
The most memorable room, though, was the Great Hall, decorated with a series of 11 modern tapestries gifted to Queen Margrethe II on her 50th birthday in 1990. Created by artist Bjørn Nørgaard, the tapestries vividly depict 1,000 years of Danish history, from Viking ships to modern life. It was both overwhelming and inspiring — a reminder that Denmark honors its past not only through preservation but also through reinterpretation. Of course, I couldn’t leave Oscar out while he was standing next to a photo of the royal family.
By evening, we weren’t quite ready to call it a night. Along with several others from our group, we walked down to the Øresund Strait area where a jazz band was playing. We also had a great view of the new Copenhagen Opera House. It was the perfect way to unwind after a full day of history, architecture, and walking — a relaxed taste of Copenhagen’s cultural life by the water.
Day 6 – Denmark, the Happiest Nation
We began our day with a fascinating lecture by historian Anders Fallentin, who helped us understand why Denmark so often ranks as the Happiest Nation in the World in the UN Conference on Happiness reports.
Anders traced the story of Denmark from its Viking roots through its modern-day identity. The Viking Age (late 8th–11th centuries) saw Danish seafarers not only raid but also trade and settle across Europe, leaving an enduring mark on the continent. By the Middle Ages, Denmark ruled over a large Nordic empire that included Norway and parts of Sweden. Over centuries of wars and territorial losses, the nation evolved into a smaller but resilient state, ultimately shaping itself into today’s modern constitutional monarchy known for its welfare system, progressive values, and global influence.
Anders also highlighted milestones in Danish history:
- 965 – Viking King Harald Bluetooth raises the Jelling Runestone, the first known mention of the word “Denmark.”
- 1167 – Copenhagen is officially founded by Bishop Absalon.
- 1420 – Copenhagen becomes the capital of Denmark and the Kalmar Union.
- 1953 – A new Danish Constitution is adopted, allowing women to inherit the throne, paving the way for Princess Margrethe to one day become Queen.
After the lecture, we took the metro to Vesterbro, where our guide gave us insight into how the neighborhood had changed over the years and painted a picture of daily life for Danish families. Originally home to Copenhagen meat industry businesses, “Kødbyen”, the area had it’s unsavory past but is now an area for families, shops, restaurants and galleries. It was a good contrast to the royal palaces and historic monuments we’d seen earlier in the week — here we got a glimpse of how modern Copenhagen really breathes.
Later that afternoon, while Laura offered an optional trip to the Little Mermaid statue. Clare and I decided to strike out on our own. We took the Metro to the stop near the Botanical Gardens and were stunned to see so many bikes. We stopped for lunch along the way to try some of Denmark’s famous “half sandwiches.” They were as beautiful as they were tasty — works of culinary art that were almost too pretty to eat.
Afterward, we wandered through the Botanical Gardens (Botanisk Have). Although it was early August and perhaps past peak bloom, the gardens were still lush, inviting, and worth the visit.
On our walk back toward the Phoenix Hotel, we passed the Rosenborg Slot barracks, where we saw the Royal Guard troops in formation. We lingered again in the castle gardens, appreciating how carefully maintained and welcoming they were — a calm green heart in the center of the city.
That evening offered one of the highlights of our Copenhagen stay: a chance to experience hygge firsthand. Hygge is a uniquely Danish word that describes the feeling of cozy contentment, comfort, and well-being, often shared with loved ones in a warm, inviting atmosphere. Along with Dave and Gail, Clare and I were welcomed into the home of Birthe and her husband, Kim, our hosts for the evening. Their warmth and hospitality perfectly embodied what hygge is all about. Sitting in their home, sharing food, conversation, and laughter, we felt the simple joy of being together — a fitting end to a day focused on why Denmark has earned its reputation as the world’s happiest nation.
Day 7 – Danish Modern Architecture
Our final full day in Copenhagen focused on the city’s modern identity — its striking and often daring architecture.
We began with a harbor tour of the Nordhavn neighborhood, one of the newest districts of Copenhagen, where contemporary design rises along the waterfront in bold shapes and sustainable projects. Seeing these new developments from the water gave us a sense of how the city continues to reinvent itself while still maintaining ties to its maritime heritage.
From there, we took the metro to Ørestad, an ambitious urban area that has become a showcase for contemporary Danish architecture. Our guide introduced us to the controversial designs of Bjarke Ingels, founder of BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group), an architecture firm with offices around the world. Ingels has made a name for himself with projects that blur the lines between function and art, sparking both admiration and debate. Walking through the district, we saw firsthand why his work divides opinion — striking, imaginative, and at times unconventional, it forces you to stop and reconsider what urban living might look like.
After a lively discussion about what we had seen, we had lunch at Traktorstedet before moving on to another very different kind of community: Christiania.
Founded in 1971 when hippies, artists, and activists cut a hole in the fence to abandoned military barracks and declared it a “free town,” Christiania has been both celebrated and controversial ever since. For decades, the area operated under its own rules, independent of Danish law. Its colorful murals, self-built houses, and creative energy made it a haven for alternative lifestyles, but it also gained notoriety for open drug dealing on “Pusher Street.”
Our guide, an original resident since it’s founding, explained how in recent years, both residents and authorities have worked together to improve safety and address illegal activities. On April 6, 2024, residents themselves symbolically dug up the cobblestones of Pusher Street, marking an end to the open drug market that had long defined the area.
Despite its challenges, Christiania remains a fascinating experiment in collective living. Many original settlers still reside there, and the area has retained its 1970s feel. Hand-built homes line the paths, while eco-restaurants, workshops, galleries, and music venues create a vibrant cultural atmosphere. Today, Christiania exists under a unique ownership model: since 2012, the Foundation Freetown Christiania has owned the parts of the community outside the ramparts, leasing land and buildings while raising funds through the sale of symbolic “Christiania shares.”
It was a thought-provoking visit — a reminder of how Copenhagen embraces both tradition and radical alternatives.
That evening, we capped off our week with dinner at Restaurant Nyhavns Færgekro, located right in the heart of the canal district. Over good food and conversation, we reflected on the layers of Copenhagen we had experienced: from its royal palaces and historic churches to its green gardens, modern architectural experiments, and communities like Christiania that continue to challenge the mainstream.
Closing Reflections on Copenhagen
Our time in Copenhagen revealed a city that is both steeped in history and boldly modern. Each day felt like peeling back another layer — from royal palaces, castles, and churches that anchor the city’s past, to design museums, harbor front districts, and daring architectural projects that push it into the future.
What struck us most was the balance Copenhagen manages to maintain. On one hand, you can stroll through centuries-old gardens or admire the Rosenborg crown jewels, and on the other, you can take in the radical lines of Bjarke Ingels’ buildings or wander the self-made community of Christiania. Somehow, it all belongs in the same city.
The Danes themselves seem to embody this blend of tradition and progress. Whether it was learning about their welfare state and quality of life, enjoying cozy “hygge” moments in private homes, or simply observing the relaxed pace of life along the canals, we came away with a deep appreciation for why Denmark consistently ranks among the world’s happiest nations.
For us, Copenhagen was more than a destination — it was an experience of contrasts: elegant yet casual, historic yet innovative, grounded in community yet open to reinvention. And while our feet reminded us just how much ground we covered, we left feeling lighter, enriched by both the knowledge we gained and the warmth of the people we met.
Stockholm – The Venice of the North
After a memorable week in Copenhagen, our Road Scholar journey carried us across the Øresund and northward to Sweden’s capital, Stockholm. Spread across fourteen islands where Lake Mälaren meets the Baltic Sea, the city is often called the Venice of the North. With its shimmering waterways, elegant bridges, and blend of medieval streets and sleek modern design, Stockholm offered us a fresh perspective on Nordic life.
Where Copenhagen charmed us with its intimacy and hygge warmth, Stockholm impressed us with its grandeur and natural beauty — a city at once regal and relaxed, surrounded by water and forest yet alive with culture, history, and innovation. Over the next several days, we discovered royal palaces, medieval alleyways, world-class museums, and neighborhoods that reflect the Swedish embrace of both tradition and forward thinking.
Day 8 – Transfer from Copenhagen to Stockholm by Train
Our Scandinavian journey continued with an early morning departure from Copenhagen. After bringing our bags down to be loaded onto the bus, we enjoyed breakfast before heading to Copenhagen Central Station. From there, we boarded the train that carried us eastward across the impressive Øresund Bridge, leaving Denmark behind as we crossed into Sweden.
At Malmö, we changed trains and settled in for the scenic 370-mile ride to Stockholm. The journey offered a comfortable chance to relax, watch the landscape roll by, and anticipate what awaited us in Sweden’s capital.
Upon arrival in Stockholm, a bus took us to our new home base, the Hilton Slussen, situated on the island of Södermalm with beautiful views over the water. Once checked in, Laura led us on a short walking tour of the surrounding neighborhood, giving us a first orientation to the city. It was just enough to get our bearings, stretch our legs after the long train ride, and prepare ourselves for the adventures ahead in Stockholm.
In my wanderings that day, I found an overlook that had a fantastic view of Stockholm. Later that evening, I took some photos from the overlook.
Day 9 – Sweden, Just Amazing!
Our first full day in Stockholm began with a lecture by Michael Kindahl, who introduced us to the fascinating history and culture of Sweden’s capital.
Stockholm, built across 14 islands connected by more than 50 bridges, is often called the “World’s Smallest Big City” or the “World’s Biggest Small Town.” Its cobblestone lanes, ochre-colored buildings, and medieval core—Gamla Stan—are home to the Storkyrkan Cathedral, the Kungliga Slottet Royal Palace, and the Nobel Museum. Ferries and sightseeing boats shuttle locals and visitors alike through the sparkling archipelago.
A number of facts that we learned helped bring the city to life:
- Stockholm’s oldest surviving building is Riddarholmen Church, built in 1270 as a Franciscan monastery.
- In 1710, plague wiped out nearly a third of the population.
- The first Nobel Prizes were awarded here in 1901.
- Today, 85% of Stockholm’s jobs are in the service industry.
- Iconic contributions from Sweden include Swedish meatballs, Pippi Longstocking, IKEA (founded in 1943), the astronomical lens, and music legends like ABBA, The Cardigans, and Roxette.
- Swedes also boast the longest life expectancy in Europe—perhaps due in part to their sense of balance (and their tradition of “After Work” happy hours).
After the lecture, we boarded a motorcoach for a tour through central Stockholm. One of the most delightful stops was the allotment gardens, where locals tend tiny cottages surrounded by vibrant flower beds, fruit trees, and neatly tended vegetable plots.
For lunch, we enjoyed an authentic Swedish experience at Restaurant Villa Godthem, where I happily ordered Swedish meatballs—complete with gravy, potatoes, and lingonberry jam. Absolutely delicious.
That afternoon we had some free time. Clare and I browsed a few local shops before taking the Metro toward the ABBA Museum, where we caught a ferry back toward the hotel. Along the way, we passed the city’s amusement park with its colorful rides and festive atmosphere.
I had hoped to visit Fotografiska, Stockholm’s renowned center for contemporary photography, but by the time we returned it was already 3:30 PM—too late for a proper visit. Fotografiska, founded in 2010, has since expanded globally (Berlin, Tallinn, Shanghai, and more), all while keeping its mission of inspiring new perspectives through art and photography. Definitely a must-see for my next trip.
Our evening was the perfect finale to the day: we boarded the SS Stockholm for dinner and an archipelago cruise, gliding through the waterways as the city lights shimmered on the water. It was nothing short of magical.
Day 10 – Gamla Stan – The Old City of Stockholm
By now, the group was accustomed to using public transportation, so the next morning we took the bus to Stockholm’s City Hall, Stadshuset, an architectural icon and home of the Nobel Prize banquet. Stadshuset stands on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen island. At first glance, I found the exterior unimpressive—massive brick walls with few windows and a pair of dark mahogany-looking doors made it appear foreboding rather than inviting. I was wrong.
Once inside, the building opened to a bright courtyard with arches facing Riddarfjärden’s northern shore and the islands of Riddarholmen and Södermalm. The hall’s style blends austere Northern European brickwork with whimsical Venetian Gothic touches—turrets with golden starlets, decorated balconies, and statues.
The Blue Hall, intended as a courtyard, is actually brick-red, but it famously hosts the Nobel Prize banquet. Its organ, with 10,270 pipes, is the largest in Scandinavia. Above it lies the Golden Hall (Gyllene Salen), where over 18 million gold mosaic tiles depict Swedish history. The effect was breathtaking.
The river side of the Stockholm’s City Hall also provided outstanding views of Stockholm and the city hall itself.
We continued by bus to Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town and the historic heart of the city. Narrow cobblestone streets led us past the Royal Palace and the medieval Storkyrkan Cathedral. A highlight was witnessing the Changing of the Guard at the palace.
Clare’s brother-in-law Tim had recommended we dine at Fem Små Hus, once one of the oldest operating restaurants in Sweden (dating back to 1694). Sadly, it was closed permanently in 2024.
That afternoon, our group gathered for a Swedish tradition: Fika, the ritual of pausing to enjoy coffee and a sweet treat. We were invited to bake our own cinnamon buns. At first Clare and I weren’t sure, but it turned out to be fun—and delicious.
Day 11 – Nordiska Museum and the Vasa Museum
On our final day in Sweden, the itinerary included the ABBA Museum. Clare and I decided to go to the Nordiska Museet, dedicated to Swedish cultural history and ethnography from the early modern period to the present. Founded in 1873 by Artur Hazelius, the museum is housed in a Renaissance-style building completed in 1907. Its vast central hall—126 meters long and 24 meters high—was striking, anchored by a towering oak statue of King Gustav Vasa sculpted by Carl Milles.
Afterward, we joined the group at the Vasa Museum. The Vasa warship, built in 1628, was meant to be the pride of King Gustavus Adolphus’s navy. Instead, it sank on its maiden voyage in Stockholm harbor due to design flaws. Salvaged in 1961 after 333 years underwater, more than 98 percent of the ship remains original. Covered in hundreds of carved sculptures, the Vasa is an extraordinary preservation of 17th-century craftsmanship. The museum’s roof even supports three reconstructed masts, showing their original height.
Returning by ferry to our hotel, we prepared for the farewell dinner—a time to share memories and say goodbye to the new friends who had been our companions on this remarkable journey.
Reflections on Copenhagen & Stockholm
As we look back on these days, the contrasts and connections between Copenhagen and Stockholm stand out. Copenhagen felt intimate, cozy, and defined by hygge, with its blend of royal grandeur, baroque churches, and modern design. Stockholm, built on its archipelago of islands, combined medieval charm with striking modernity and a deep sense of history.
What made the trip special was not just the sights, but the people—the lecturers who brought history to life, our guides who wove stories into streets and buildings, our gracious hosts who opened their homes, and our fellow travelers who became friends.
We came home with tired feet, happy memories, and a renewed appreciation for how these two nations balance tradition, innovation, and community. It was an extraordinary adventure—one we will treasure always.
Marc's Travels 