Málaga, a city where ancient history meets modern vibrancy, is one of Spain’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. With its blend of Phoenician, Roman, Moorish, and Spanish influences, Málaga offers a fascinating look into the region’s past while embracing its artistic and cosmopolitan present.
A Surprise Welcome in Málaga
We arrived in Málaga early in the morning, only to be met with an unexpected scene—crowds filled the streets around our hotel (Hotel Málaga Premium) and the church next door. At first, we weren’t sure what was happening, but soon we discovered that Málaga was in the midst of celebrating the Candlemas. February 1 is the eve of Candlemas (La Candelaria), a major Christian feast celebrating the presentation of Jesus at the temple. Some churches hold special services or processions the day before.
Standing at the heart of the festivities was the magnificent Iglesia de San Juan. Originally built in Gothic-Mudejar style, but has been renovated multiple times, especially after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which led to a major Baroque-style reconstruction. The bell tower stands out as one of the most striking features, with a mix of Mudejar and Baroque influences.
As we stood taking in the scene, rose petals rained down from above, carried by the soft morning breeze. The energy of the crowd was contagious—music, laughter, and the hum of celebration filled the air. For a moment, we simply watched, entranced, before the procession made its way inside the cathedral.
Clare turned to me with a smile and said, “This is a Rick Steves moment.” And she was absolutely right.
Picasso’s Birthplace and a Gateway to the Past
Málaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, one of the most influential artists of the 20th century. The Picasso Museum, housed in a beautiful 16th-century palace, showcases a vast collection of his works, offering insight into his artistic evolution. Walking through Málaga’s streets, you can feel his influence in the city’s bohemian cafés, contemporary galleries, and vibrant street art scene.
Iglesia del Sagrario, Málaga: A Hidden Gothic Gem
Nestled beside Málaga Cathedral, Iglesia del Sagrario is an overlooked treasure with a rich history and stunning Gothic architecture. Built in the late 15th century on the site of a former mosque, this church symbolizes Málaga’s transformation after the Christian reconquest. Its intricate Gothic portal and blend of artistic styles make it a must-see for history and architecture lovers.
A Church with Deep Historical Roots
Constructed shortly after Málaga’s conquest by the Catholic Monarchs in 1487, Iglesia del Sagrario served as the city’s parish church, marking a new era of Christian rule. While Málaga Cathedral took centuries to complete, this church was built quickly, becoming a center for worship and a reflection of the region’s evolving identity.
Architectural Highlights: Gothic Meets Renaissance
- Exterior: The Flamboyant Gothic entrance, adorned with intricate biblical carvings, is a rare sight in southern Spain.
- Interior: A fusion of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements, with vaulted ceilings, detailed altarpieces, and chapels showcasing religious artwork from different eras.
Though overshadowed by Málaga Cathedral, Iglesia del Sagrario offers a quieter, more intimate glimpse into the city’s past. Whether you’re drawn to history, architecture, or hidden gems, this church is well worth a visit. Sometimes, the most unforgettable places aren’t the grandest—they’re the ones with stories waiting to be discovered.
The Alcazaba and Gibralfaro Castle: A Glimpse into Spain’s Moorish Past
Perched above the city, the Alcazaba of Málaga is one of the best-preserved Moorish fortresses in Spain. Built in the 11th century by the Almoravid dynasty, its intricate archways, lush courtyards, and strategic watchtowers transport visitors back to a time when Málaga was a crucial stronghold of Al-Andalus.
Just above the Alcazaba sits Gibralfaro Castle, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean coastline. Originally a Phoenician outpost, the Moors later fortified the site, and today it remains one of Málaga’s most iconic landmarks. Unfortunately, although we purchased tickets to castle, we were too tired to continue walking and only viewed the castle from afar.
The Roman Theatre: A Testament to Málaga’s Ancient Roots
At the foot of the Alcazaba lies Málaga’s Roman Theatre, a well-preserved relic from the 1st century BCE. Discovered in 1951, this site is a reminder of the city’s Roman past and is still used for cultural performances today.
Culinary Delights: A Taste of Málaga
Food lovers will delight in Málaga’s rich culinary traditions. Must-try dishes include:
- Espetos de sardinas – Fresh sardines grilled over an open flame, a coastal specialty.
- Ajoblanco – A cold almond and garlic soup, perfect for warm Andalusian days.
- Churros con chocolate – A sweet treat enjoyed in charming cafés throughout the city.
We tried the sardines at El Pimpi which were very good. I must admit, after a long day, I needed a bit more than a glass of vino tinto. We didn’t try the local cannabis but we found the “Oh Holy Mary” quite amusing.
Whether you’re exploring its ancient ruins, admiring Moorish architecture, or indulging in local delicacies, Málaga is a city that blends history, art, and coastal charm like no other.
Sevilla: The Heartbeat of Andalusia
Sevilla (Seville), the soul of Southern Spain, is a city of passion, history, and vibrant traditions. With its stunning Moorish palaces, grand cathedrals, and the fiery art of flamenco, Sevilla embodies the essence of Andalusian culture. As the capital of the region, it has been shaped by Roman, Moorish, and Spanish influences, making it one of Spain’s most captivating destinations. We stayed at the Hotel Inglaterra that had a nice bar and view on the roof.
Plaza de Toros: The Heart of Spanish Bullfighting
Built in the 18th century, the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza is one of Spain’s oldest and most prestigious bullrings. With its distinctive Baroque façade, golden-hued arches, and iconic red seats, it remains the epicenter of bullfighting culture in Andalusia.
Torre del Oro: Seville’s Golden Watchtower
Standing proudly along the Guadalquivir River, the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) is a 13th-century military watchtower built by the Moors to guard the city from naval attacks. Its name comes from the golden reflection it once cast on the river, rumored to be due to stored treasures or golden tiles. To get to the Torre del Oro, Clare and I took a scenic route, crossing the Rio Guadalquivir where we viewed the people of the city enjoying a sunny day. We saw several shells on the river no doubt practicing for competition. It was interesting to see how important Matadors are since they put plats on the home of Manuel Jimenez Vera Chicoelo and his son Manuel Jimeniz Moreno. After crossing back across the river, we came to the Torre del Oro.
The Alcázar of Sevilla: A Royal Masterpiece
A visit to Sevilla wouldn’t be complete without stepping into the Real Alcázar, a breathtaking palace that blends Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Originally built by the Moors in the 10th century, it later became a royal residence for Spanish monarchs.
- The Mudejar-style courtyards, intricate tilework, and lush gardens make it one of the most stunning palaces in Europe.
- The Hall of Ambassadors is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, featuring an ornate wooden dome and gold detailing.
- Fans of Game of Thrones may recognize the Alcázar as the filming location for the Water Gardens of Dorne.
The Cathedral & La Giralda: A Symbol of Spain’s Past
Sevilla’s Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, commonly known as Seville Cathedral, is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Built on the site of a former mosque, it stands as a testament to Spain’s religious transformation.
- The cathedral is home to Christopher Columbus’ tomb, an impressive monument honoring the legendary explorer.
- The adjacent Giralda Tower, originally a Moorish minaret, offers panoramic views of the city for those willing to climb its 35 ramps.
Plaza de España, Seville: A Timeless Masterpiece of Spain
Few places in Spain capture the essence of grandeur and history like Plaza de España in Seville. This architectural marvel, with its sweeping semicircular design, intricate tilework, and serene canal, is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, it stands as a stunning blend of Renaissance, Moorish, and Spanish architectural styles. Whether you’re admiring its bridges, strolling along its colonnades, or simply soaking in the atmosphere, Plaza de España is a must-visit destination in Seville.
Barrio de Santa Cruz: Sevilla’s Historic Quarter
The Barrio de Santa Cruz, once the city’s Jewish quarter, is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways, hidden courtyards, and orange-scented plazas. Some must-see spots include:
- Plaza de Doña Elvira – A charming square with ceramic benches and lush gardens.
- Callejón del Agua – A picturesque street running along the old city walls.
- Casa de Pilatos – A beautiful palace combining Mudejar, Gothic, and Renaissance styles.
A City That Captures the Heart
Sevilla is a city that stays with you long after you leave. Whether you’re wandering through its historic streets, admiring its architectural wonders, or losing yourself in the rhythm of flamenco, Sevilla captures the magic of Southern Spain like no other place.
Marc's Travels 