London, the Start

Our first stop was John Soane’s Museum, a fascinating (and free!) museum located on Lincoln’s Inn Fields. This historic area is home to Lincoln’s Inn, one of the four Inns of Court in London, where barristers train and are called to the Bar.

After exploring the museum, we took in the stunning architecture along Lincoln’s Inn, which is situated in Holborn, within the London Borough of Camden. Among the impressive buildings, one that stood out was the grand Honourable Society of Lincoln’s Inn, a historic institution at the heart of England’s legal world.

The Royal Courts of Justice is a striking court building in London that houses the High Court and Court of Appeal of England and Wales. Designed by George Edmund Street, it features a grand Victorian Gothic façade made of grey stone. Built in the 1870s, the courthouse was officially opened by Queen Victoria in 1882.

Located on Strand, within the City of Westminster, the building stands as a landmark of British legal history and architectural grandeur.

This area is particularly fascinating as it marks the beginning of the old City of London, symbolised by the dragon sculpture created in 1880 by Charles Bell Birch. Perched atop a pedestal, this iconic dragon stands where the historic gates of the City of London once stood, marking the boundary between old and new.

Nearby, you’ll also find the Twinings Tea store, a must-visit for tea lovers. Here, you can sample authentic English tea—a world apart from what’s typically available in the U.S. I tried the Earl Grey, and let’s just say, it was far superior to what they ship to the colonies. No wonder we rebelled!

No one visits the UK without noticing the sheer number of pubs scattered throughout cities and towns. London, in particular, seems to have more than its fair share—perhaps even an overabundance!

One thing that puzzled us was why so many people were drinking outside the pubs. Curious, we asked about it and were told it’s largely because of smoking restrictions. However, I couldn’t help but notice plenty of people enjoying their drinks outdoors without a cigarette in sight.

And before you ask—yes, I did try fish and chips in a London pub. They were… mediocre. But the ones we had in Whitby? Absolutely excellent.

A stop at Westminster Abbey is an absolute must. Located just around the corner from Parliament, on Parliament Square, this iconic landmark is steeped in history.

However, the crowds are brutal—so if you’re planning a visit, it’s best to book tickets in advance. We didn’t… so, I guess that’s another reason to plan a next trip!

A Perfect Lunch Break: St James’s Park

If you’re looking for a peaceful break during a busy day of sightseeing in London, St James’s Park is the perfect spot. Nestled right near Buckingham Palace, it offers both serenity and history, making it an ideal place to unwind. We were fortunate to arrive just in time for one of the park’s most unique traditions—feeding the pelicans. These fascinating birds were first introduced to the park in 1664, a gift from a Russian ambassador to King Charles II.

The sight of these majestic pelicans being fed, with the backdrop of the park’s beautiful greenery and the iconic London skyline, was an unexpected highlight. It’s a moment that feels like a step back in time, as you take in the park’s natural beauty while connecting to centuries of history. It’s a spot that’s often overlooked by many tourists, but for those in the know, it’s a hidden gem for a peaceful respite during a London adventure.

A Historic Stroll: Whitehall to Trafalgar Square

After a relaxing lunch at St James’s Park, we continued our exploration with a stroll up Whitehall toward Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery. Whitehall, one of London’s most iconic streets, is a fascinating walk through history. As we made our way down, we came across a Brexit demonstration—an example of how history continues to unfold right before your eyes in this city of constant change.

For me, as a history major who studied English history in-depth, walking down Whitehall was like stepping into the pages of a textbook. This street is home to some of the most significant historical buildings and monuments you could ever associate with England. We passed the Cenotaph, a solemn war memorial that honors British and Commonwealth soldiers, and I couldn’t help but reflect on the phrase “The Glorious Dead” and what it represents. There was also the imposing old War Office building, a reminder of England’s military legacy, and the Horse Guards, standing stoically as they have for centuries. We also spotted the Ministry of Defense, a building that symbolizes the country’s commitment to national security.

As we wandered, we noticed that Great Scotland Yard and Horse Guards Avenue branched off to the east, while Downing Street, home to the British Prime Minister, veered off to the west. Though we couldn’t get a glimpse of 10 Downing Street itself due to an iron fence and the watchful eye of the guards, the aura of British political history was palpable in the air.

By the time we reached Trafalgar Square, with its grandiose Nelson’s Column and the National Gallery, it felt like we had taken a step back in time, absorbing the rich layers of England’s history in just a few short blocks.

A Step into History: The Tower of London

One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to the Tower of London, officially known as Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London. Situated on the north bank of the River Thames in central London, this iconic landmark is more than just a fortress; it’s a treasure trove of English history. Our guide, Anne-Marie Walker, was a fount of knowledge, providing us with incredible insights into the Tower’s long and complex past.

The Tower’s history begins with the White Tower, the castle’s centerpiece, which gives the entire structure its name. Built by William the Conqueror in 1078, it was designed not only to dominate the skyline but also to assert royal power over the Londoners who had been defeated during the Norman Conquest. The sheer scale and design of the White Tower were meant to instill awe and fear into the hearts of those who gazed upon it.

Though the Tower is widely known for its role as a prison, it wasn’t originally built for that purpose. From 1100 until 1952, it served as a royal residence, and its use as a prison only peaked during the 16th and 17th centuries. Despite its infamous reputation for torture and death, only seven people were executed within its walls before the 20th century—though the site’s bloody history has been immortalized in countless stories and legends.

As we toured the Tower, Anne-Marie explained that the complex consists of several buildings within two concentric rings of defensive walls, all surrounded by a deep moat. The layers of protection speak to its historical importance, not only as a royal residence and prison but also as a fortress designed to defend the Crown.

The present-day St Paul’s Cathedral, completed in the 17th century, was designed by Sir Christopher Wren in the English Baroque style. It replaced the medieval cathedral that was largely destroyed in the Great Fire of London in September 1666. Today, St Paul’s stands as one of London’s most iconic and recognisable landmarks. Its majestic dome, rising 365 feet (111 metres) into the sky, has dominated the city’s skyline for over 300 years. From 1710 until 1967, it held the title of the tallest building in London.

I’d highly recommend visiting the British Museum. We only had a couple of hours, but it was absolutely worth it. I was genuinely blown away by the exhibits, which span the full breadth of human history. The collections aren’t just incredible—they’re breathtaking. Honestly, just seeing the Rosetta Stone alone made the trip worthwhile.

Salisbury, Stonehenge, and Avebury

We officially kicked off our Road Scholar programme in Salisbury, staying at the charming Red Lion Hotel. While we did spend time in London as part of the itinerary, that segment has already been covered, so I’ll focus here on the Salisbury portion of the trip.

Salisbury’s history is fascinating. The city’s origins trace back to Old Sarum, just two miles away, which sits on a strategic hill offering sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. First settled between 600 and 300 BC, Old Sarum saw a succession of occupiers—Romans, Saxons, and Normans—before being abandoned in the 13th century in favour of establishing Salisbury.

If you’re planning a visit, I highly recommend stopping by the local tourist office and picking up the Walk-round Guide to Salisbury for just £1. The beautifully illustrated map highlights 16 points of interest and makes for a delightful few hours of easy walking.

The walk begins at the stunning Salisbury Cathedral, founded by Bishop Richard Poore in 1220 when he moved the cathedral from Old Sarum to its current location. By 1258, the choir, transepts, and nave were completed and consecrated. The spire—soaring to 404 feet—was added about a century later and remains the tallest in England and the third tallest in Europe. Widely regarded as the most beautiful English cathedral in terms of both setting and appearance, Salisbury Cathedral also houses one of the best-preserved original copies of the Magna Carta, as well as the oldest working mechanical clock in the world.

Next to the cathedral are the cloisters, featuring a single central pillar from which the vaulted roof elegantly fans out—a quiet and reflective space that shouldn’t be missed.

As we continued exploring Salisbury with the help of the Walk-round Guide, we discovered a treasure trove of historical gems within the Cathedral Close and the surrounding city:

(3) Mompesson House – Built in 1701, this elegant Queen Anne townhouse is one of the finest houses in the Close, showcasing beautiful period interiors and a peaceful garden.

(4) The College of Matrons – Founded in 1682, this building served as a residence for widows of clergy and is a lovely example of late 17th-century architecture.

(5) High Street Gate – This imposing gateway was constructed in the 14th century to protect the Cathedral Close and its clergy from the occasionally unruly townspeople. It remains one of the few surviving medieval gates into the Close.

(6) The Old Bookshop – A charming, timber-framed building dating back to the 14th century. Its crooked architecture and rambling interior make it a delight to step into.

(7) The Old George Inn – Originally built in the 14th century, with a later 15th-century front, this historic inn has welcomed travellers for centuries and still retains much of its medieval charm.

(8) The Poultry Cross – This open-air market, dating from the 14th century, marks the site where poultry and other goods were once sold. Just across the way is the Haunch of Venison, another historic inn said to have hosted pilgrims before they visited the cathedral.

(9) St Thomas’s Church of Canterbury – Mostly dating to the 15th century, with some parts reaching back to the 13th, this parish church is a must-see. Above the chancel arch is the striking Doom painting, a vivid depiction of the Last Judgement.

(10) The Town Mill – One of four mills recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, it offers a glimpse into Salisbury’s early economy and water-powered industry.

(11) Harnham Mill – Though we didn’t get to visit, this mill is another historic site mentioned in the Domesday Survey and located just outside the city.

(12) The Guildhall – Built in 1795 as a gift from the Earl of Radnor, this grand civic building has been at the heart of Salisbury’s public life for centuries.

(13) House of John a’Porte – Constructed in 1425, this was the home of John a’Porte, who served as Salisbury’s mayor six times—an impressive feat in any era.

(14) The Pheasant Inn – Dating back to the 15th century, this building once served as the hall for the Shoemakers’ Guild. Today, it’s a cosy spot steeped in local history.

(15) The White Hart – Alongside the Red Lion, this was one of Salisbury’s grand coaching inns. In its heyday, stagecoaches would depart from here bound for London.

(16) St Ann’s Gate – Dating from 1333, this gate was part of the wall that once enclosed the Cathedral Close. Its arched passageway is a picturesque piece of medieval Salisbury.

Stonehenge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most iconic landmarks in Britain.
This prehistoric monument is made up of a ring of massive standing stones, set within earthworks in the middle of a landscape packed with ancient history. The area around Stonehenge holds the highest concentration of Neolithic and Bronze Age monuments in England, built between roughly 3000 BC and 2000 BC.

Scattered across the site are hundreds of burial mounds—chambered tombs known as long barrows. These may have been part of an early system of ancestor worship, showing that Stonehenge was more than just a gathering place—it likely had deep spiritual meaning for the people who built it.

Avebury

After visiting Stonehenge, we made our way to Avebury—home to the largest prehistoric stone circles in the world. Unlike Stonehenge, Avebury feels much more open and immersive. You can actually walk right up to the stones, which makes the experience feel more personal and surreal at the same time.

The site is made up of three stone circles, and the sheer scale is mind-blowing. Some of the stones, like the ones in the first two photos, weigh over 100 tons. It really makes you stop and wonder—how on earth did people thousands of years ago, with no modern machinery, move and raise these massive stones?

We often think of ancient societies as “primitive,” but Avebury is a powerful reminder that they were anything but. The engineering, planning, and communal effort involved here is seriously impressive. It’s one of those places where you can’t help but feel a sense of awe—and a few lingering questions that history still hasn’t quite answered.

Cambridgeshire

After a couple of busy days exploring London, we headed to Cambridge to dive into the history of its world-famous university. We were lucky to have an excellent tour guide, Tony Rodgers, whose dry humor kept us entertained—especially when he cheekily referred to “that other university whose name will not be used.”

The University of Cambridge was founded in 1209, and just over 20 years later, in 1231, it was granted a Royal Charter by King Henry III. It’s the second-oldest university in the English-speaking world and the fourth-oldest still in existence anywhere. According to Wikipedia, as of March 2019, Cambridge boasts an impressive 118 Nobel Laureates.

The university’s alumni list reads like a who’s who of history: Isaac Newton, Alan Turing, Stephen Hawking, Bertrand Russell, Charles Darwin, Francis Bacon, Lord Byron, John Maynard Keynes, J. Robert Oppenheimer—and the list goes on.

Some of the iconic university buildings we saw included King’s College and its spectacular chapel, the Cavendish Laboratory, the Mathematical Bridge, Clare College, Trinity College’s Great Gate, and even the Eagle RAF Bar. We also saw people punting along the River Cam and spotted the eerie Hangman’s House number.

The Tudor influence is especially visible in King’s College Chapel. The symbol of their authority can still be seen in the Ante-chapel, and the breath-taking fan vaulting—easily one of the most stunning architectural features—was the work of master mason John Wastell.

Burghley House

Burghley House is one of those places that feels like it stepped straight out of a period drama—and for good reason. Built between 1555 and 1587 by Sir William Cecil, the house has remained in the Cecil family ever since. It’s a stunning example of 16th-century English Elizabethan architecture, full of history and grandeur.

The sweeping gardens and surrounding parkland were designed in the 18th century by none other than Lancelot “Capability” Brown, the legendary landscape architect. His work gives the estate its signature look—elegant, natural, and endlessly photogenic.

And if Burghley House looks strangely familiar, that’s because it’s been a star in its own right. It’s been featured in several films and TV series, including Middlemarch, The Da Vinci Code, Pride & Prejudice, and Elizabeth: The Golden Age.

York & York Minster

York is one of those cities where history seeps from every stone. Founded in 71 AD, it’s been a backdrop for warfare, political power plays, and industrial innovation over the centuries. It was here that Constantine the Great was proclaimed Emperor and later converted Rome to Christianity. Richard III plotted his campaigns in York during the Wars of the Roses, and Guy Fawkes—England’s most infamous traitor—was born here.

Fast-forward to the Industrial Age, and York was leading the way in early photography and confectionery. In fact, the iconic Kit Kat bar was created here in 1911 by Rowntree’s of York.

If you’re visiting, one of the best ways to start is by walking along the city’s medieval walls. They’re the most complete set of city walls in England, and they even incorporate parts of the original Roman fortress, as well as Norman and medieval additions.

Wandering through central York, you’ll come across the famous Snickelways—narrow, twisting pedestrian alleys that once led to bustling marketplaces. Then there’s The Shambles, a postcard-perfect medieval street packed with shops, boutiques, tea rooms, and more than a few Harry Potter-inspired wizard shops. Look out for Lady Row too, home to a row of medieval houses dating back to the early 14th century.

Fancy a pint? Stop by The Black Swan, a cosy freehouse, which means it’s not tied to any one brewery and can serve a wide variety of beers.

From ancient streets to Gothic spires, York is packed with history—and absolutely worth the visit.

York Minster

Standing in front of York Minster, it’s hard not to be awestruck. The scale alone is impressive—but once you step inside, the soaring Gothic architecture, the intricate stained glass, and the sheer sense of history hit you all at once. This isn’t just a cathedral; it’s a monument to centuries of faith, conflict, and craftsmanship.

York Minster is the seat of the Archbishop of York, the third-highest office in the Church of England. Christianity in this city goes way back—the first church here was probably built in the 4th century, with a wooden structure recorded in 627 for the baptism of King Edwin. Since then, the site has seen invasions, destruction, and rebuilding across the centuries.

The Danes destroyed one of the early churches in 1075, but it was rebuilt in the Norman style, stretching an impressive 364 feet. In 1215, Walter de Gray became Archbishop and commissioned a new Gothic cathedral, which would eventually become the one we see today. The north and south transepts were built in the Early English Gothic style, and the Chapter House was completed before 1296. The cathedral was finally declared complete and consecrated in 1472.

Of course, time hasn’t left it untouched. Fires, war, and neglect all took their toll, but the 20th century brought a renewed focus on preservation—and thankfully so. Seeing it in person, you can feel how much care has gone into maintaining its beauty.

As we explored the Minster, knowing this history added so much depth. You’re not just looking at a building—you’re walking through layers of stories, each stone shaped by faith, power, and time. It was one of the real highlights of York.

Castle Howard

As soon as Castle Howard came into view, I couldn’t help but think of Brideshead Revisited. The house and its grounds look like something straight out of a period drama—and for good reason. It’s one of the grandest stately homes in England, and it’s every bit as dramatic in person as it is on screen.

Castle Howard was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh, better known at the time as a playwright, not an architect. He had help from the more experienced Nicholas Hawksmoor, and together they created a striking Baroque masterpiece for the 3rd Earl of Carlisle. The design features two perfectly symmetrical wings stretching out from a central axis, topped off with a majestic dome that dominates the skyline.

We spent time touring the expansive grounds, which were just as impressive as the house itself. Highlights included the Temple of the Four Winds, Hawksmoor’s Pyramid, and the grand Atlas Fountain sculpted by John Thomas. The whole estate feels like a carefully curated landscape painting—elegant, vast, and full of surprises.

Construction began in 1699 and, believe it or not, wasn’t completed until 1811—over a century later—under the direction of Charles Heathcote Tatham. But the result was well worth the wait.

Durham, the North York Moors & Whitby

On our way to Durham, we drove through the North York Moors—a vast, wind-swept landscape that feels a bit desolate at first glance. But even in that quiet, there’s something captivating about it. You can just imagine how stunning it must look in late summer when the heather is in full bloom, turning the entire area into a sea of purple. The North York Moors is actually one of the largest stretches of heather moorland in the UK, and I’d love to come back when it’s in its full seasonal glory.

We made a memorable stop at Goathland Station on the North Eastern Railway, a treat for any Harry Potter fan. This charming little station doubled as Hogsmeade in the films, where the Hogwarts Express drops off its young wizards. It’s also had its fair share of screen time in classic British TV series like Heartbeat and All Creatures Great and Small.

While we were there, two steam engines pulled into the station, puffing away as we sat back with a proper cup of Yorkshire tea. It felt like we’d stepped into another era—there’s something timeless about that moment: the sound of steam, the old brick platform, and the whistle echoing through the moors.

Whitby

Whitby is one of those places that instantly wins you over. It’s a vibrant seaside town in North Yorkshire, full of character, history, and seagulls that eye your chips a little too closely. It’s also where a young Captain James Cook learned the ropes—literally—starting his journey toward becoming one of Britain’s most famous explorers.

The town has long been known for its jet jewellery, a shiny black gemstone popularized by both the Romans and the Victorians. You’ll still find shops selling handcrafted jet pieces today.

At the top of the East Cliff are the dramatic ruins of Whitby Abbey, the town’s most iconic landmark. Founded way back in 657, it looms over the town with a kind of gothic elegance that makes it clear why Bram Stoker chose Whitby as the setting for part of Dracula.

We climbed the famous 199 steps—known as the Church Stairs—to reach the Abbey and St Mary’s Church, which dates back to the 12th century. It’s a bit of a trek, but the views from the top are worth every step.

On the West Cliff, we stopped to see the whale bone arch, a striking tribute to Whitby’s whaling past. It frames the Abbey ruins across the bay perfectly—like a photo already waiting to happen.

And I can’t not mention the food—Quayside served up the best English fish and chips I’ve had. Crisp, golden batter, flaky fish, and just the right amount of salt and vinegar. Eating it with a view of the harbour made it all the better.

Hadrian’s Wall

Visiting Hadrian’s Wall felt like stepping back nearly two thousand years—straight into Roman Britain. The wall was built in AD 122 on the orders of Emperor Hadrian to mark the northern boundary of the Roman Empire. Stretching 73 miles coast to coast, it’s the largest Roman archaeological structure anywhere, and even though only parts of it remain, the scale is still seriously impressive.

Originally, the wall stood about 15 feet tall, but thanks to centuries of people “borrowing” the stones for roads, homes, and other buildings, much of it now stands around 4 feet high. Still, the sense of history is strong—and if you let your imagination do a bit of heavy lifting, you can almost picture Roman soldiers patrolling the edge of the known world.

Our guide, Sue (you’ll spot her in the bright pink raincoat in our photos), gave a fantastic narration about life at the fort ruins—everything from military routines to what the Romans ate. It was easy to get swept up in the stories, even if the weather wasn’t exactly cooperating. It was a grey, misty day with on-and-off rain, which made photography a bit tricky but added an atmospheric touch that somehow felt fitting for a frontier that once stood against the wild north.

Durham Cathedral

Durham Cathedral is the kind of place that makes you stop and stare—even if you’ve already seen your fair share of cathedrals. Construction started in 1093 under William of Calais, and while most of it was completed by 1140, there have been additions and restorations over the centuries. Still, the heart of it remains a stunning example of Norman architecture, and honestly, it’s one of the finest in all of Europe.

One of the most fascinating things inside was learning how the Normans built those massive columns. At first glance, the patterns look incredibly detailed and intricate—but they actually achieved that look using just a few cleverly cut stone designs. It’s a brilliant bit of craftsmanship that still holds up nearly a thousand years later.

The cathedral is also the final resting place of Saint Cuthbert, one of the North’s most venerated saints. According to medieval accounts, when his tomb was opened eleven years after his death, his body was said to be miraculously intact—a detail that certainly added to his saintly reputation.

We had a bit of free time to explore the nearby town square, which was lively and full of charm. And then there was our hotel—the brilliantly named “The Honest Lawyer.” It’s hard to forget a name like that. I’m still not sure if it was meant to be ironic or hopeful!

Final Thanks (and a Lot of Headcounts)

A huge thank you goes to our incredibly gracious—and impressively vigilant—group leader, Philip Tootill. Thanks to Philip’s expert herding skills, I’ve ended this write-up with some great group shots he captured at both Stonehenge and the Tower of London.

As for how many headcounts he did during the trip? Honestly, I lost track after the first dozen… but I’m pretty sure Philip could now count us all in his sleep. And if there were an Olympic event for “keeping track of tourists in historic places,” he’d be bringing home gold.